Notes from the neighbourhood

Local guides and honest tips, written for my guests — and anyone dreaming of Paris.

Taxi, train or transfer — from CDG, Orly or the stations to the Marais, plus how to spend your first evening.

My five favourite outings — the islands and Notre-Dame, Place des Vosges, the Eiffel Tower by river, a Marais fashion morning, and Versailles.

Why November and February might be my favourite times to hand you the keys — snowy streets, fewer crowds, and a cosy home.