After years here, these are the five outings I recommend to everyone — from a five-minute stroll to a half-day escape. They're the ones I still do myself.
1 · A walk across the islands
Ten minutes from the door, cross onto Île Saint-Louis — the quiet, villagey heart of old Paris. Wander its main street (and stop for a Berthillon ice cream), then carry on to Île de la Cité and the newly restored Notre-Dame, open again and more luminous than ever. Go towards golden hour — the light on the Seine, the bridges and the cathedral is the loveliest in the city. Entry is free; reserve a free timed slot on the official site, notredamedeparis.fr, a couple of days ahead to skip the queue — the window only opens about 72 hours before, and ignore any site charging for entry.
Allow 2 hours for the walk, or up to 5 with a visit inside.
2 · Place des Vosges, and a pause at Carette
Eight minutes away lies Paris's oldest and loveliest square. Sit under the arcades, then treat yourselves at Carette, a Parisian institution for macarons and hot chocolate. A few steps on, on rue Payenne, slip into the courtyard of the Swedish Institute for a coffee at Café Fika — a calm little secret. And the Maison de Victor Hugo on the square is free to visit.
Allow 2 to 4 hours, especially with lunch at Carette.
3 · The Eiffel Tower — by river
My favourite way to reach it: the Batobus river shuttle. The stop is right on the quays, five minutes from the apartment, and a day pass (about €27 per person) lets you hop on and off all day. Glide past the Louvre and under the bridges, and step off at the foot of the tower — far lovelier than the metro. Give it a full afternoon so you arrive as the light turns golden.
Count about 6 hours if you go up the Iron Lady herself.
4 · A Marais fashion-and-coffee morning
Start where I start: a coffee at Noir, the best roaster in the neighbourhood (rue des Blancs Manteaux). Then, for fashion, don't miss Dover Street Market (35–37 rue des Francs-Bourgeois) — the cult concept store, set in a magnificent 17th-century mansion, with a stylish café inside. Wander the streets around it — rue des Francs-Bourgeois, rue Vieille du Temple, rue des Archives, rue du Temple, rue des Rosiers — and duck into my little secret: the Jardin des Rosiers – Joseph Migneret, a hidden garden and a true haven of peace. For lunch: L'As du Fallafel on rue des Rosiers (get it to take away), Café Berry on rue Chapon, or Les Philosophes, a market-driven brasserie — or the café inside Dover Street Market for something design-forward.
A whole morning, or half a day with a long lunch.
5 · A day at Versailles
When you feel like leaving the city, the RER C carries you straight to Versailles Château Rive Gauche for just €2.55 each way, in about 45 minutes. For more comfort and to save time — especially as a group — a taxi or private car does it in 30–40 minutes (around €60–70). Book your château tickets ahead and arrive early to stay ahead of the crowds.
Allow about 2 hours for the château and 2 more for the gardens — they're half the magic.
Ask me before you come and I'll happily sketch out a day or two around these. There's no better way to fall for Paris.